Refined Gourmands

Gourmands are practically always in, but this summer they are evolving. “Once known for their rich, dessert-like sweetness, they’re now showing up in lighter, more nuanced forms—where edible meets elegant,” says Lush Perfumer Alina Gliwinska. “Expect smooth blends of toasted sugar, airy florals, bright fruits, soft woods, and whisper-light spices.”

The gourmand notes of the past may have centered around vanilla, but this season they are expanding into new realms. “We are seeing perfumers moving beyond traditional vanilla to milks (heavy cream) as well as seeds and nut notes,” says Caroline Ornst, Senior Director of Fragrance Development at DSM-Firmenich. “Our perfumers at DSM-Firmenich are also exploring notes that are savory, like butter, truffle, and soy sauce. Another trend we are seeing emerge are vegetables.”

While savory gourmands will certainly have a moment of their own, according to Gilwinska, toasted sugar is the note to watch. “It’s warm and cozy, with a gentle smokiness that brings depth without the heaviness—like the caramelized top of crème brûlée or sugar just melting in a pan,” she says. “It feels nostalgic yet sophisticated, like a grown-up treat. This new wave is all about balance and wearability, especially in warmer weather.”

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